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The 75th Masters takes place at the revered Augusta National course in April. Few mortals ever get to grace such hallowed fairways but there’s a pretty good alternative just down the road. By Tim Bona & Michael Stewart.
star attraction
Movie stars, racing car drivers, Presidents and some of the world’s best golfers. They’ve all enjoyed a round at one of Bali’s favourite courses.
Hugh Fitzhardinge reports.
What do Sylvester Stallone, Don Johnson and two-time Formula One World Champion Fernando Alonso have in common?
Bali Golf & Country Club, Nusa Dua, Bali.
And while some of the world’s biggest celebrities have graced its fairways, so too have leading golf pros Colin Montgomerie, Ian Woosnam, Vijay Singh and Michael Campbell. In fact, six-time Major winner Nick Faldo still holds the course record with a 63 in the Alfred Dunhill Masters in 1994.
Another regular visitor is Indonesian President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, commonly known as SBY. His visit is never going to be as serene as a regular golfer, coming as he does with an entourage of 28 (not including the snipers in the bush!). Choose a day when President SBY isn’t around though and you’ll be assured one of the most alluring of golf experiences.
Caddies are obligatory with many having worked here for more than 15 years. Some are scratch markers so heed their advice. Ketut Budiada started life as a caddy here when the course opened in 1991. He has since been elevated to Assistant Professional and was disappointed with his round of 75 the day he joined Golf Vacations for a round.
Together with Brisbane-born Head Professional Robert Turvey, these two make a marvellous duo and take immense pride in the course, its history and its people. Turvey also runs The Ancora Golf Institute, the only private institute on the island, complete with video analysis and all the practice facilities needed to sharpen your skills.
Now to the course.
It’s best to hit off early morning or mid-afternoon because of the always present tropical heat. Having said that, when Golf Vacations played there was a temperate sea breeze throughout the entire round making any discomfort negligible.
The course is, like the Balinese, inviting and forgiving. Measuring 6,298 metres off the back tees (5,915 metres from the front), it sometimes looks narrow but the fairways are very generous. Play straight and you can’t get into too much trouble. Although there are some cracking holes that invite a bold approach.
The uphill, 471-metre, par-5 first is a lovely introduction to this lush course with beautifully manicured green fairways. The hole requires two good shots before setting up an uphill approach. And the par-4 second is a short yet stunning uphill dogleg that runs left to right. Walking up the hill to your approach, you’ll also be confronted with something apart from your ball, namely the drama of Mt Agung volcano.
If there’s one thing you’ll remember about this course, it’s the par-3s.
Standing on top of the breathtaking 129-metre par-3 fourth you’ll see (on a good day) not only Mt Agung, but stretching across the Indian Ocean the outer island of Nusa Penida. The sixth is another stunner. Surrounded by terraced tropical flower gardens, it requires an uphill shot to a long and tricky, double-tiered, narrow green. If you’re not near the pin you’ll struggle to make par.
Moving to the back nine is like moving countries. Whilst the front side feels like a parkland course with undulating hills and rainforest, the back nine is something different altogether. Primarily flat, you find yourself wandering through coconut groves and what General Manager and New Zealand ex-pat Bruce Jellard calls ‘dog heaven’ - huge waste bunkers that the local canines just love burrowing in. Jellard recounts how at the annual Bali Classic, an amateur weekend put on by Asian businessmen, there’s a local rule that if playing partners agree a ball has landed in a dog divot, you get free relief.
Walking up the tenth, a sense of serenity pervades as traditional Balinese pipe music is heard in the distance. The course also takes on a distinct village feel and it’s not uncommon to see local farmers crossing the course complete with rice harvest knives in hand.
The signature par-3 is the 124-metre 12th. A stunning water carry, it also has a traditional Balinese temple to the right where locals still go to make an offering. But don’t let that distract you: just pray you hit it well and a birdie is on offer.
Thoroughly deserving of its stroke two status on the index is the par-4 16th. The 374-metre dogleg left prompts you to open up your shoulders off the tee and a wide-open fairway allows this. The second shot requires a deft approach to a cloistered green and flying a big trap. If you don’t quite make it you’ll be left with a deep bunker shot.
Survive that and you get to finish the round in style. The 18th is a visual treat, with bunkers on the left and water all the way down the right. A straight tee shot will set up an easy approach, in view of those in the distinctive, tropical clubhouse across the water.
And when you’ve finished your round and enjoyed a cooling ale or two in the clubhouse, you don’t have far to walk to your room. The accommodation at Bali G&CC consists of three beautifully appointed villas that sit slap bang on the course. They feature everything that upmarket Balinese hotels are renowned for. Private dining pavilion, butler and a personal chef. If the bones are a bit weary from over swinging, then wind down with a massage by your private pool.
There are plenty of other accommodation options as the club sits within the five-star Nusa Dua resort, one of the only master planned resort communities in Asia. Housed within it are 11 five-star hotels, including the super plush St Regis Hotel and next tier down (price wise) Novotel Bali Benoa. None of the options could be described as ‘slumming it’. The Balinese have some of the best hotels in the world and hospitality is second to none.
Apart from golf, activities include great shopping and water sports set amongst almost five kilometres of white sand beaches plus a plethora of food options. One ‘wow’ restaurant at the moment is Kayuputi, housed in the St Regis Hotel. It’s hard to get dining more distinguished than this. With a beautiful open plan kitchen and bar, it’s spread on two distinct levels. Alternatively, dine outside in one of the special bales in front of beautiful Geger Beach surrounded by natural reef.
The menu specialises in classic produce with a designer twist. From crispy tempura soft shell crab, whole live lobster in garlic and lemongrass to freshly made linguini with clams, prawns and scallops. The food is stunningly presented... if you can take your eyes off the view.
You could comfortably stay in the confines of the Nusa Dua resort for a week. But that would be a shame as there are some great things to do in the surrounding area. Just book a cheap taxi or driver and you’re there.
A 30-minute drive from Nusa Dua is the Rock Bar, located in the Ayana Resort. It’s unforgettable. Catch an inclinator down a natural cliff and visit one of many bars that are set into the rock face or have a dip in a seaside pool. After that, ask your driver to take you to nearby Jimbaran beach where you can feast on some of the most exquisite seafood in the world for next to nothing. You’ll also sample a taste of Balinese village life and understand why it’s one of the most beautiful cultures on earth.
Nearby is the Uluwatu Temple, which sits on a breathtaking 70-metre high cliff over the ocean. To enter you need to be properly dressed in a sarong, which you can rent outside. But be careful of the monkeys when you go inside. They’re very good at snatching bags, cameras and glasses. If you do lose something, locals will coax the monkeys back with your belongings but at a price. Generally, fruit or peanuts…and a small tip for the local.
Uluwatu is also home to one of the most famous surfing breaks in the world. Go to a local warung (Balinese eating and drinking house) that overlooks this stunning spot where surfers come on a pilgrimage from all over the world. It doesn’t matter if golf’s not your thing. Watching the sunset on a cliff top bar while expert surfers ride waves below, you’ll understand why Bali truly is the island of Gods.
at a glance
Getting there: Garuda, Jetstar and Pacific Blue all fly directly to Bali from Sydney, Melbourne and Perth.
Garuda. Phone 1300 365 330 or visit
www.garuda-indonesia.com
Jetstar. Phone 13 15 38 or visit
www.jetstar.com
Pacific Blue. Phone 13 16 45 or visit
www.pacificblue.com.au
Green fees: Bali Golf & Country Club: 18 holes costs $US165, including caddy, cart and range balls. From Monday – Friday (excluding public holidays) there is complimentary set-menu lunch. Daily ‘sundowner rate’ $US88; play as many holes you can from 3pm until dark.
www.baligolfandcountryclub.com
Accommodation: Bali G&CC offers three supremely luxurious villas nestled into the course with three and four bedroom options.
www.baligolfandcountryclub.com
The St Regis Hotel is set on several hectares of lush, tropical, private land with 123 luxurious suites and villas adjacent to Bali G&CC.
www.stregis.com/bali
Novotel Bali Benoa is a family-friendly resort catering for parents and children close to Bali G&CC.
www.novotelbalibenoa.com
A 30-45 minute drive from Bali G&CC is the sprawling opulence of Ayana Resort & Spa with majestic views over Jimbaran Bay.
www.ayanaresort.com
Things to do: Water sports, spa, shopping,
sight seeing.
Further Information: www.balitourismboard.org
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